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| Tea appreciation |
Traces from Phu Xuan in the 18th Century
As early as the 18th century, when Phu Xuan had already become the great capital of Dang Trong (the Inner Realm), the tea-drinking customs of the nobility were recorded as expressions of wealth and refinement. In Phu Bien Tap Luc (Miscellaneous Chronicles of the Pacified Frontier), scholar Le Quy Don, when surveying the socio-economic conditions of the Thuan Hoa region, could not help but marvel at the prosperity of the Phu Xuan capital - particularly the lifestyle of the upper classes with their elaborate porcelain cup sets and fine Chinese teas, regarded as an elegant yet costly indulgence.
These accounts reveal that long before Hue became the imperial capital, tea had already transcended everyday life to become a symbol of an elite way of living, bound to knowledge, ceremony, and aesthetic sensibility.
When Hue became the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, the art of tea drinking was elevated to the level of court ritual, closely tied to the royal architectural and landscape system. Across the imperial gardens and scenic retreats within and around the Imperial citadel, including Thieu Phuong, Ngu Vien, Truong Ninh Palace, Hau Lake, Tinh Tam Lake…, the royal court created ideal spaces where the emperor, the royal family, and courtiers could enjoy tea, admire flowers, compose poetry, and discuss affairs of state.
In that context, tea did not exist in isolation but was woven together with poetry, painting, calligraphy, and natural scenery. A royal tea gathering was a harmonious blend of tea - scenery - human - literature, a clear expression of Eastern aesthetics and the distinctive character of Hue’s culture.
Seasonal tea appreciation
One of the most distinctive features of Hue’s tea culture is the practice of drinking tea according to the seasons, known as thoi tra. People of Hue in former times did not use a single set of cups throughout the year; instead, they had four sets - one for each season of Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter - suited to the climate and the shifting sensations of taste at each time of year. This reflects a worldview that prizes harmony between humanity and nature, between an individual’s rhythm of life and the turning of the heavens and earth.
To drink tea in the Hue style, one must first have the “proper set”. The tea set is not merely a collection of utensils but the framework for the entire tea appreciation. It includes the chen tong (a large cup for transferring the tea), the chen quan (small cups for drinking), a tray, a table, a clay teapot, a small stove, a water-heating kettle, and a tea canister. Each piece has its own function and place, ensuring the tea remains consistent in flavor and fragrance, and that the occasion unfolds with elegance and order.
Because tea drinking is regarded as a form of ritual, whether one drinks alone (doc am), in a pair (doi am), or in a group (quan am), the steps of brewing, pouring, offering, and raising the cup remain unchanged. This adherence to form is not about ostentatious formality, but about creating a shared cultural space where people learn restraint and mutual respect.
Tea and water - The essence of meticulousness
Tea calls for only two ingredients — tea leaves and water — yet both demand extraordinary attention. From the selection of tea, the scenting with lotus, jasmine, or mock lemon, to tea storage, everything follows time-honored knowledge. The water used to brew tea may be pure rainwater, water drawn from a deep well, or even dew collected from lotus leaves at dawn.
Boiling the water is itself an art. Water that “bubbles softly”, just at the right heat, is considered ideal. Water boiled too long makes the tea harsh and strips its fragrance. Water not yet fully boiled fails to draw out the tea’s full flavor. These details reveal that the people of Hue regard tea as a crystallization of nature’s essence, requiring harmony between the natural world and human intention.
The subtlety of Hue tea is also evident in the etiquette of serving. The person brewing tea is typically the host, seated to the right, while guests sit to the left. Tea is transferred from the chen tong to the chen quan to ensure each cup is equally flavored. When offering a cup, it is held with both hands as a sign of respect. The drinkers do not rush. Their movements are unhurried and mindful of the person across the table.
In these small gestures, Hue tea culture becomes a means of cultivating character - nurturing composure, courtesy, and grace.
Tea and sweet accompaniments - A balance of life
Another hallmark of Hue tea culture is that it is always served alongside cakes and confections. Lotus seed banh in (seal cake), mung bean cakes, Kim Long sugared ginger, sesame candy, peanut candy, and malt candy… not only enrich the taste but also create a balance between the bitterness of tea and the sweetness of life. During festivals and the Lunar New Year holidays, a hot cup of tea alongside a thin slice of mildly spiced ginger preserve brings a warmth of togetherness.
Born in the royal court, as this art spread to the wider populace, it dropped some of its ceremonial formality while retaining the soul of warmth and refinement. Today, amid the pace of modern life, Hue’s tea culture is being rediscovered as a space for stillness - helping people slow down and turn more quietly inward.
The art of Hue tea appreciation is therefore not merely a relic of the past, but a living cultural tradition that retains its full value in the present, contributing to the depth and identity of the Ancient Capital, a place where people learn to live slowly, to live beautifully, and to live with feeling.