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| The famously delicious Bun Bo (beef noodle soup) conquers even the most discerning food connoisseurs. Photo: Q.T |
More than 400 years ago, among the group of people who followed Lord Nguyen from Dang Ngoai (the Northern Realm) to settle in Co Thap village, an area located in former Quang Dien district, there was a talented and beautiful young woman who chose to make rice noodles (bun) from the rice grown in this land. Her noodles were so delicious that people came to call her Bun, or Noodle. But as it goes, where there is admiration there is also jealousy. So when three consecutive rice harvests failed, ill-intentioned people spread rumors that the gods were punishing the village because Miss Noodle dared to take the sacred grain of heaven to soak, grind, and press. They forced her to either give up her trade or leave the village. She chose to leave to keep her craft and settled in Van Cu village, Kim Tra Ward. The Van Cu noodle-making craft was born from that moment.
Meanwhile, the famous late American chef Anthony Bourdain is the person whose remarks about Bun Bo Hue (Hue beef noodle soup) have had the strongest and most widely spread impact on international media. During a filming trip for CNN’s Parts Unknown in Hue in 2014, the legendary chef chose to sit down at a small, simple stall in the Dong Ba market food area. In that warm, intimate setting, he enjoyed a bowl of Bun Bo and uttered the words that would change the standing of this dish forever: “The greatest soup in the world.”
The story of Miss Noodle reveals the identity and historical roots of the bowl of Bun Bo Hue - a heritage dating back to the era of territorial expansion, with its main ingredient, the rice noodle, being an agricultural product made from rice grown in the low-lying plains of the Hue region, with its own distinctive flavor. Combined with local ingredients such as beef, pork, and various vegetables and spices, and shaped by the skillful hands of Hue chefs, this has given rise to variations like Bun gio (noodle soup with pork hock) and Bun bo gio cua (noodle soup with beef, pork hock, and crab balls) - dishes so delicious they have won over even connoisseurs like Anthony Bourdain.
I still believe that a bowl of Bun bo reflects the depth of Hue culture, clearly demonstrating the blending between the elaborate cuisine of the royal court and the simplicity of folk cooking. A standard bowl balances the “five flavors” (sour, spicy, salty, sweet, bitter) and the “five colors” (green from scallions, white from the noodles, brown from blood pudding, red from chili, and light yellow from the annatto-infused broth oil). An authentic Hue-style bowl of Bun bo is not overly large, overly full, or overly generous, as versions from other regions tend to be. This reflects the Hue character of ‘eating for fragrance and beauty’ - prioritizing flavor over fullness.
I'm fond of the name ‘Hue Beef Noodle Soup Day’. It brings to mind Italy’s Pizza Festival or Germany’s Oktoberfest. I was also especially struck by the festival’s highlight: preparing and showcasing the dish to serve the largest number of people at a single moment, as part of a larger festival, placing Bun Bo Hue alongside cuisines from many other regions of the country. Additionally, there is the art program ‘The Legend of Van Cu and the Huong Ngu Symphony’, along with many cultural exchange, showcase, and experiential activities. I think this is how the people of Hue spread awareness of, honor, promote, and transform the status of Bun Bo Hue - elevating it from a humble everyday dish into a heritage of international standing.