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| Vegetarian banh loc (tapioca dumplings) |
Hue’s vegetarian food is incredibly diverse. From traditional savories like banh nam, banh loc, banh it, banh uot, banh cuon, banh beo, banh khoai, and banh in, to the uniquely vegetarian banh ram it, almost every famous local delicacy has its own plant-based version. A standout in Hue’s vegetarian menu is vegetarian banh loc (tapioca dumplings), a popular and beloved dish. The fillings, whether mung beans, tofu, wood ear mushrooms, or carrots, are all simple, easy-to-find ingredients, yet when combined, they create a distinct, one-of-a-kind flavor. The cakes are typically wrapped in banana or dong leaves (Stachyphrynium placentarium leaves), or left unwrapped, and are often served with crispy shrimp crackers. The contrast between the crunchiness of the crackers and the chewy softness of the tapioca with savory filling makes for an irresistible combination. The soy sauce for dipping is also creatively adapted, with a little hot water, a bit of sugar, and spicy chili added, a signature flavor booster for Hue’s food lovers.
When a child, I preferred the savory version of banh loc, but as I grew older, I came to appreciate both. The vegetarian version feels gentler, more refined, with its own unique charm. Smooth mung bean paste melds with the chewy tapioca dough, delivering a mellow yet satisfying bite. Wrapped in green banana or dong leaves, the cakes become even more appealing to the eyes. In the late afternoon, vendors would carry large trays of both savory and vegetarian banh loc, the green, brown, and orange colors mingling together like a charming little painting of daily life in Hue.
Exploring Hue’s vegetarian cuisine through vegetarian banh loc feels like tapping into a fascinating treasure trove, where the essence of nature and culture blend seamlessly in each dish. The recipe for making Hue style mung bean banh loc is fairly simple. First, wash and soak the mung beans in warm water for two to three hours or overnight. Steam the beans until soft, then mash or blend them. Sauté shallots in oil, add the beans, season with salt, and stir until smooth and pliable. Roll the bean paste into small balls. For the dough, mix tapioca starch with a bit of salt and oil, then slowly add boiling water while stirring continuously to partially cook the starch. Once cool enough, knead the dough by hand until it becomes soft, smooth, and non-sticky. Divide into small portions, then, on a flat surface, place a banana leaf lightly brushed with oil, flatten a piece of dough on the leaf, place the filling in the center, then fold the dough to fully enclose the filling. The version with tofu and carrot filling differs only in that the filling consists of tofu, wood ear mushrooms, and carrots, well-seasoned and thoroughly sautéed.