Many journeys back to old Hue begin with seemingly small details. For me, it was a visit to An Thu garden house in Gia Hoi old quarter - a contemplative Hue residence nestled behind lush green trees. Mr. Vo Chanh Tien, the current caretaker, led me through the rooms while sharing the house's history and stories of generations tied to the garden and the rhythm of the old Gia Hoi. But what made me linger the longest was actually… beneath my feet.

I visited An Dinh Palace on a warm, sunny early spring day. Not counting the respectful foreign visitors pausing before each artifact, I figured that among the more than 20 young people bustling about in ao-dai, with flowers, striking various poses for photos, few knew that they were standing very close to the remnants of a famous theater from the end of the Nguyen Dynasty that has now completely disappeared: Cuu Tu Dai.