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| The Bao Trac cement tile floor is still preserved at the An Thu garden house |
The floor is a “carpet” of multicolored cement tiles, with delicately interwoven patterns. Each tile acts as an independent decorative piece; and the tiles combine to form a harmonious whole: some tiles feature balanced geometric patterns, while others displayed stylized flowering vines. The colors are not garish or eye-straining, but soft and deep, they carry a sophisticated depth of time. Looking at the tiled-floor, I felt as if I were in a dialogue with a prosperous era of cement tile production and the aesthetic tastes of urban Hue.
Noticing my fascination, Mr. Tien remarked, “Those tiles are from Bao Trac brand”. The name Bao Trac emerged like an invisible bridge hyphen, pulling me away from the present and back into the past. A cement tile brand in Hue? From that moment, I began a journey to rediscover the identity of the Bao Trac cement tile brand, a brand once renowned, then gradually obscured by the upheavals of history and the vicissitudes of times.
Following the trails in Trang An Newspaper
Serendipity came from old newspaper pages. While sifting through the information in Trang An Newspaper, I came across a brief note about Bao Trac Trading Company, headquartered at 118 Quai An Cuu. Following that clue, I learned that the old street is now named Phan Chu Trinh.
The Trang An Newspaper also reported that during Hue Fairs (Foire de Hué), organized by the imperial court of the Nguyen Dynasty in coordination with the French Resident Superior, the Bao Trac Trading Company consistently participated, exhibited products, and won numerous awards.
At the Hue Fair in 1938, featuring over 140 booths, the opening ceremony was attended by Emperor Bao Dai, Empress Nam Phuong, French Resident Superior Graffeuil, and many high-ranking officials. At the fair's conclusion, Bao Trac's carved stone products were awarded a Gold Medal, a milestone sufficient to confirm its prestige. In 1939, the Hue Fair attracted over 150 trading companies nationwide; Bao Trac Trading Company continued to participate and showcased granito tiles (cement tiles), drawing large crowds of visitors.
These brief details were like scattered puzzle pieces, needing to be assembled to reveal a more complete picture: Who was the owner? Why the name “Bao Trac”? Where was the production facility located within Hue?
Returning to My Hoa Cong Residence
The address on Quai An Cuu and the name “Bao Trac” suggested a connection to the Nguyen Dynasty royal family's residences, I decided to visit My Hoa Cong Palace at 296 Phan Chu Trinh Street, An Cuu Ward, Hue City. Fortunately, I met Mr. Quy Tiet, the caretaker of the ancestral residence. In a slow conversation, he shared some precious information: Mr. Bao Trac (1900 - 1973) was the eldest son of My Hoa Huyen Cong Vinh Thu, belonging to My Hoa Cong Residence. He was conferred the title of My Hoa Huyen Hau by Emperor Bao Dai to take over the responsibility of ancestral worship for My Hoa Cong Residence.
These details clarified one thing: Bao Trac was not merely the name of a trading company; it was the name of a royal family member of the Nguyen Dynasty.
A royal entrepreneur and his practical career path
According to the accounts, alongside his role in managing court rituals, Mr. Bao Trac was known as a prominent entrepreneur in the royal family, who excelled in pursuing practical career. In 1937, he founded the Bao Trac Trading Company, headquartered right within the grounds of My Hoa Cong Residence, specializing in the production and trade of carved stone and granito tiles.
In Hue, cement tiles were more than just building materials; they were an expression of aesthetic taste. The cement tile floors provided cool, clean, and elegant feeling; the patterns enlivened the space; the colors softened harsh sunlight, making homes more comfortable during the scorching sunny days. During that period, the majority of residential construction in Hue, as well as the restoration of palaces and shrines in the Imperial Citadel and the royal mausoleums of the Nguyen Dynasty’s emperors, used Bao Trac cement tiles as flooring, replacing expensive ones imported from France.
A remaining memory
History, however, does not always follow a straight path. In 1968, Mr. Bao Trac moved to Buon Ma Thuot (Dak Lak) and entrusted the cement tile production facility to his younger sister, Mrs. Ton Nu Hanh Trang. The production facility continued operating until 1975, when it was forced to close due to the lack of imported materials. From that point on, the journey of the Bao Trac cement tile brand, once famous in Hue in particular and across the country in general, officially came to an end.
Yet, intriguingly, while a brand may come to an end, its products remain. Properly preserved cement tile floors can last for a long time. They remain quietly in garden houses, ruong houses, French-style houses, and old buildings, beneath the footsteps of people who pass through daily without necessarily knowing the name of their creator. And so, sometimes just a single look at a floor can open up a journey to the past.
Leaving My Hoa Cong Palace, I walked more slowly along Phan Chu Trinh Street, wondering how many Hue’s stories are hidden in such ordinary details like tiles, roof shingles, or window frames. The journey to find the Bao Trac cement tile brand was, for me, not only a rediscovery of a lost brand, but also a way to touch the cultural sediment of Hue heritage city. Perhaps that is the greatest charm of Hue: a place where silent values are hidden, until at some moment, we chance upon them and are drawn into a journey of rediscovery, just as my journey began, from the cement tile floor at An Thu garden house.