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| The delicate dish which is meticulously processed |
A good bite packed with memories
After ten years of living in Europe, Hang Pham returned to her hometown for a visit and eagerly waited for the season when boiled lotus roots stuffed with glutinous rice and mung beans were sold. "When I was a child, every time our family held a death ceremony, Grandma cooked this dish. We sisters would gather around and watched her carefully inserting mung beans into tiny holes in lotus roots, so meticulously that it made our eyes tired. It took half a day just to finish this stage. After Grandma passed away, no one dared to make it again any more. Every time I see someone sell it, I picture my grandma sitting quietly in the corner of the house, scooping and pressing. It makes me miss her so much,” said Hang with emotion.
In the memory of many elderly people, lotus roots stuffed with glutinous rice and mung beans are a humble dish, yet evidence that the royal cuisine affected folk cuisine. Just simple lotus roots, but Hue people skillfully make them into a delicate delicious dish. When sliced, they look like petals, soft, fragrant, chewy, nutty, and sweet. Lotus roots are eaten as breakfast or as a snack, but they can be fried or stewed, believed to boost blood health, support heart function, and aid digestion.
More than half a century ago, this snack could be found in big markets such as Dong Ba, An Cuu, Ben Ngu, and Tay Loc. Over time, it’s gradually disappearing. “By lunar July, people would sell it at Tay Loc Market. Every time Mom went to the market, I’d look forward to it; just a few slices satisfied me. Now, seeing it sold again, I happily recall my childhood,” said Mrs. Hoang My Nga at Phu Xuan Ward.
According the elderly, lotuses in the North and the South are grown in mud. Only in Hue are they grown in sandy soil. Though they give smaller seeds (and smaller flowers and smaller roots too), they are chewier, more fragrant, so more delicious; especially they give better aftertaste. Dishes made from Hue’s lotus seeds are usually meticulously cooked such as che sen nhan long, banh sen tan, cu sen nhoi nep dau, etc. Hue people’s sophisticated way of eating is due to the combination and refinement of royal cuisine and folk cuisine.
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| A tray of boiled lotus roots stuffed with glutinous rice and mung beans |
The dish is believed to have originated from the Imperial City, then it was spread to princes’ and princesses’ residences and transformed into various versions. According to culinary artisan Mai Thị Tra a niece of Emperor Duy Tan’s wife, who is keeping many recipes of ancient Hue, lotus roots stuffed with glutinous rice and mung beans were pretty popular at mandarins’ homes at the time. At parties, women often cooked special sophisticated dishes to make a difference for their feasts and to also showcase their culinary skills.
“The secret to this dish lies in choosing aged plump lotus roots with tightly closed ends and dark yellow in color. Well-drained round glutinous rice and mung beans are well inserted into holes on lotus roots so that when cut, we’ll have beautiful slices. They can be eaten with sugar or salty sesame, suitable for those who like wholesome simple food,” said Tra.
As of now, there remains only one family that sells this snack, and they are the second generation. Because it is seasonal food, one can enjoy this original dish in about two months per year. In the small modest house by a lake at the end of Nguyen Trai Street, people wake up to the aroma from baskets of chubby lotus roots. The alley soon becomes vibrant with sounds of vehicles and people talking.
Royal delicacy made by muddy hands
Phan Van Chau and his wife, Nguyen Thi Chin, began to grow lotuses in Emperor Thanh Thai’s era. As experienced growers, they were entrusted by the successive emperors to grow and harvest lotuses in the Imperial City and at royal mausoleums.
The couple has three sons and three daughters, but only three of them continue their parents’ career. “Lotus growing is hard work and depends heavily on weather. Now and then off-season floods destroy all the plants,” said Phan Van Hiep. “Our grandfather’s brother-in-law was related by marriage to Emperor Thanh Thai, so our family could visit the Imperial City easily. My mother was called into the Imperial City and was taught how to make this unique dish because they loved her honest nature and hard working,” added his younger brother Phan Van Binh.
It is Chin who makes lotus roots with the help from her children. In the morning she sells wholesale to venders who then retail them in markets. “It’s hard work, so after Mom passed away, no one in the family wants to continue. We husband and wife moved to live in the South, and have just returned recently. My wife got sick and can’t do hard work now. So we decided to make the snack again for a living,” said Hiep honestly.
After being peeled and thoroughly cleaned, lotus roots are cut open at one end. Being an adroit man, Hiep takes on the job of inserting glutinous rice and mung beans into lotus roots. That is the hardest step. The open end is then pinned back with a toothpick and the lotus roots are boiled. Sometimes the stuffing isn’t finished until 9 p.m. The whole family stay up to cook. The lotus roots are simmered for 7–8 hours. By the time the fire dies down, the lotus roots are perfectly cooked. In the next morning they are still warm.
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| The alley on Nguyen Trai Street is the place where many people return for memories of the past |
“In order to have delicious lotus roots stuffed with glutinous rice and mung beans I must accept this,” said Hiep, showing his hands stained with cuts and lotus sap. “To feed glutinous rice and mung beans into lotus roots, I need to know how and use a special tool. That is the secret I learned from my mother. But I can do 15-17kg a day at the most.”
The weather is unpredictable this year. Floods badly affected lotus growing. As a result, lotus roots are sold later than usual, which keeps many regular customers waiting. The comeback of the snack evokes lots of memories. People from far and wide rush in to buy as if they were afraid that they wouldn’t have another opportunity to taste the snack.
Every day at 5 a.m. Mrs. Nguyen Thi Minh Yen, Hiep’s wife, along with his younger sister, display their tray of boiled lotus roots at the entrance of the alley where elderly morning exercisers are waiting. Within just 2-3 hours, their snack is sold out. In recent years, in addition to selling on the spot, Hiep has also taken pre-orders too. His customers are on the increase over the course of time. Last year, they even didn’t have enough to sell. On the 14th and 30th days of the lunar month, they sell a lot to pagodas.
Well-off customers buy by the kilogram, at VND100,000/kilo. Poorer laborers buy in smaller quantities, at VND10,000/100 grams. Everyone wants to try and appreciates the hard work of the makers. Some people come from as far as Chan May-Lang Co; some buy to send to Saigon or abroad. “When lotus roots are in season, our home becomes crowded and bustling. Seeing people’s love for this traditional snack brings us joy too,” said Hiep cheerfully.
In every late summer and early autumn, customers are eagerly waiting for boiled lotus roots made by Yen and Hiep. Young people rush in out of curiosity to taste the rare snack of ancient Hue while old people are moved recalling the image of their diligent hardworking mothers and grandmothers.